A Night at the Ryokan

As part of our mainland trip, we were in Kyoto, and decided as a cultural experience for the girls (all of us, really) to forgo a hotel for the night, and stay at a Ryokan.  “What is a Ryokan?” you ask.  Well, since we weren’t 100% sure either, we “googled it” and were informed by Wikipedia:

     “A ryokan (旅館) is a type of traditional Japanese inn that originated in the Edo period (1603–1868), when such inns served travelers along Japan's highways. They typically feature tatami-matted rooms, communal baths, and other public areas where visitors may wear yukata and talk with the owner.  

     Ryokan are difficult to find in Tokyo and other large cities because many are expensive compared to hotels, and Japanese people increasingly use hotels for urban tourism. Nonetheless, some major cities do have reasonably priced ryokan, with some costing as little as $40 a night. However, ryokan are more typically located in scenic areas, such as in the mountains or by the sea and in recent years many ryokan have been redeveloped to their original style particularly by resort chain Hoshino Resorts, whose first ryokan opened in Karuizawa in 1914.  

     Most ryokan offer dinner and breakfast, which are often included in the price of the room. Most visitors take their meals at the ryokan, which usually promote themselves on the quality of their food. Meals consist of traditional Japanese cuisine known as kaiseki, which features seasonal and regional specialties. (Kaiseki originally referred to light meals served during a tea ceremony, and today refers to a meal consisting of a number of small, varied dishes.) In order for each dish to be enjoyed at the proper temperature, ryokan stress that guests should be punctual for their meals. For this reason, most ryokan ask guests to confirm the time they want to take their meals.

      Some ryokan have a communal dining area, but most serve meals in the guests' rooms. Ryokan which are likely to serve non-Japanese guests may also have a selection of Western food.”

 

So now that you know the “definition” we’ll give you the real world skinny on what this entails.  First off, we arrived after the 2-hour Shinkansen (bullet train) ride from Tokyo, and were a little early for the 4p.m. check in.  But after a local train from the Kyoto station to the Arashiyama neighborhood platform, we threw our packs on and began the ½ mile or so to the Benkei Arashiyama Ryokan.

On the way, we passed the Ten-ryuji Temple (more on that later) and a whole street of local food and craft vendors, before arriving at our Ryokan.  Our first impression was very positive.  Like a small bed and breakfast, the place went to great lengths to be welcoming.  Before we even left the street out front, we realized our name was on the welcome board on the steps.

We entered the entry, and called out a hello, and were promptly greeted by two ladies in traditional Japanese kimono and obis.  They let us know that check in wasn’t until four, but that we were welcome to leave out packs while we explored the city.  Perfect.  Since it was only 1:30, we gladly dropped our loads and set off for the Arashiyama Monkey Park, across the river.  (Also a separate story).  When we returned at five after four, we were met with the start of the experience.  We were greeted and removed our shoes (The girls tried to place them on the shoe shelves, but were enthusiastically told to leave them there, it was fine), and were escorted upstairs to our room.  After ascending a set of steep stairs, we padded down the hall way in our socks, and around a corner, where the hostess pointed down a flight of stairs and said that is the public bath area (more on this later) around another corner, the hostess slid open a set of double shoji doors, and we entered our room.

The rooms were reserved by the size, based on the tatami mats.  I think we had a 14 tatami room.  I didn’t have a tape measure on me, but I’d say it was probably 12x16 or so.  When we entered, the room was set up for tea, and as the hostess walked us through the check in process, we had tea and a snack.

 This photo shows the green tea, and a snack, which consisted of two wafer-like boats, and a packet of sweet bean paste. There was also a hot hand towel, which we knew from prior Japanese living, was to wash hands and face prior to eating.  We had our tea (along with some tears because “green tea is disgusting!” –Bella) and snack, settled on our dinner time with the hostess, and were off to explore the Ten-ryuji gardens and bamboo grove (which was the inspiration for this whole trip).

Picture of the pin from Pinterest:

And my girls on a Bamboo Grove path:

(Every now and then true life trumps the "perfect Pin")  I haven't bothered to do any post processing on the picture, but trust me, it looked as mystical as the lighting in the above.

When we returned, it was about 20 minutes before we had requested dinner.  Traditionally, a bath is taken before dinner, but being short on time, we opted to wipe down with a cool washcloth and dress for dinner.  We had been provided with yukata (traditional dressing robes) and obi (sashes).  While it wasn’t required, we figured it would add to the experience.  Let me tell you, there is an ART to tying an obi.  A skill I DON’T possess.  But like the saying goes, “when in rome….”  I’m sure our hosts appreciated the effort.

Promptly at 7 p.m. dinner began as requested.  Dinner was the traditional kaiseki.  Before I go into the dinner, I’ll refer to wiki to explain the breakdown:

“Kaiseki (懐石) or kaiseki-ryōri is a traditional multi-course Japanese dinner. The term also refers to the collection of skills and techniques that allow the preparation of such meals, and are analogous to Western haute cuisine.

Kaiseki refers to a set menu of select food served on an individual tray (to each member of a gathering).   Originally, kaiseki comprised a bowl of miso soup and three side dishes;  this is now instead the standard form of Japanese-style cuisine generally, referred to as setto, "set".

Kaiseki has since evolved to include an appetizer, sashimi, a simmered dish, a grilled dish, and a steamed course, in addition to other dishes at the discretion of the chef.  They include:

Sakizuke: an appetizer similar to the French amuse-bouche.

Hassun: the second course, which sets the seasonal theme. Typically one kind of sushi and several smaller side dishes.

Mukōzuke: a sliced dish of seasonal sashimi.

Takiawase: vegetables served with meat, fish or tofu; the ingredients are simmered separately.

Futamono: a "lidded dish"; typically a soup.

Yakimono: (1) flame-broiled food (esp. fish); (2) earthenware, pottery, china.

Su-zakana: a small dish used to clean the palate, such as vegetables in vinegar; vinegared appetizer.

Hiyashi-bachi: served only in summer; chilled, lightly cooked vegetables.

Naka-choko: another palate-cleanser; may be a light, acidic soup.

Shiizakana: a substantial dish, such as a hot pot.

Gohan: a rice dish made with seasonal ingredients.

Kō no mono: seasonal pickled vegetables.

Tome-wan: a miso-based or vegetable soup served with rice.

Mizumono: a seasonal dessert; may be fruit, confection, ice cream, or cake."

We won't give the whole play by play of eating an 8 course, 15 dish meal in a foreign country right now.  But if you have the time, you can read about our Kaiseki Dinner here.  

After dinner, we left to bathe, and get ready for the night.  

Bathing at a Ryoken is an experience.  Most of them are (were) placed in or around the thousands of hot springs around this volcanic island country.  Now days hot water heaters probably pick up the slack in some areas.  But because of this, the weary traveler was usually gifted with a warm, mineral laden bath.  Because the warm baths were communal (think Greeks.....or Seinfeld), it is important to cleanse yourself BEFORE getting in.  In essence, a shower before your bath.  They are also single gender.

When you enter a bath, there is a room for changing, it has baskets for your clothes, clean towels, and a (non fogged up) mirror for shaving/teeth brushing.

 From there, you go through a door into the bath room.  One side of the room has little washing stalls, for showering.  This includes a stool to sit on, a handheld shower with cold water, and shampoo and soaps.  Guys, I know you're saying, "I've done locker rooms....thats nothing."  But think on this.  Go into your kitchen, get the little 6 inch stool your wife keeps around to reach top shelves, and have a seat on it.  Now get naked.  And give yourself a one handed shower.  How manly do you feel right now, washing your body like a monkey?

With showers out of the way, it's on to the bath.  It is generally made of local slate, full of steam so thick you "wade" through it, and big enough to fit several people.  I don't know if all of them are like this, but in my case, it also had a very fat, very old Japanese man ("with his old, wrinkly balls.....Ewwww") sitting naked in the tub when the steam swirled aside and I could see. Too late to turn back now. 

 I slid in and soaked for a bit.  Again, back to the gym analogy.  Awkwardness can be eased by idle chit chat.  Sports scores.  Current events.  Etc.  Carry on a conversation, don't make eye contact, and everyone is fine.  Add a language barrier, and things kind of go awry.  Fortunately, I'm a Marine.  We can be so irreverent and hypersexualized that nothing phases you after a while.  Before I decided to call it a night, the old man must have been not a Marine, because he awkwardly got up, and left in a bit of a hurry.  (Marines-2 Japanese-0)  Ahhhhhhhh!  The hot water all to myself. 

(They also have outdoor varieties in a lot of places too.  In Thailand our hotel had an outdoor bathroom.  I loved it.  But that was also kind of private.  Here, I think it might be okay in the Summer.  But in the Winter I just picture the Japanese snow monkeys sitting around in the hot springs.  Only less animated and fun.)

 

Meanwhile, the girls somehow walked in and it was only the four of them.  Score.  Alicia opted not to join the girls, but it made for a quick bath time for all 3 kids. While we were gone to the baths, two little 85 lb Japanese girls completely cleared our tables, removed them from the room, and broke out 5 sleeping mats.  You'd never believe it from this picture, but I can honestly say that of the 5 hotels we stayed in this trip (and probably another 4 throughout Asia), this was the most comfortable night of sleep any of us had gotten. 

 

They were made of two parts, and while the lower one was just a simple foam pad about 3" thick, that was topped with a duvet-type pad that was pretty much heaven in a sack.   Lights out!

The next morning, we got up, and packed, as we had plans that involved the more Northern side of Kyoto.  But I will touch on breakfast.  When we checked in, we were asked about our breakfast desires (Japanese or Western, and the time).  When we finished packing up, we went down to the "dining room" and its view of the river and Mt Arashiyama.

 

We were pleasantly surprised.  Along with a hand written place card with our name and the day's weather forecast, were fresh yogurt, thick cut bread, a croissant, a cinnamon raisin roll, fresh orange juice, and a cabbage salad.  Score!  But it didn't end there.  We were shortly brought out plates with eggs (with the very typical Japanese condiments of ketchup and mayo for eggs), bacon, a cabbage salad with sesame-vinegar dressing, and some tomatoes.

Once that was under way, they brought out  coffee, green tea, and a corn chowder.  With those came fears that breakfast might be as fattening and fun filled as dinner the night before. 

 

Fortunately, that was all of it, and after arranging to leave our bags there until mid day, we set off to explore Ten-Ryuji gardens, and some local shops, after one last picture taken by our hosts.